It’s been a downbeat season dominated by protected collections, with a couple of courageous contrarians corresponding to Rei Kawakubo.
At her Comme des Garçons present on Friday night, it felt like she couldn’t cease herself from including extra zany prints, extra colour, extra texture, extra sparkle and extra quantity, including as much as a few of the largest, strangest and most wondrous outfits seen to date this season.
Even the sneakers — both ankle boots or bulbous Salomon sneakers — swarmed with steel brooches and large gem stones. Fashions wore stiff, cartoonish bobs that resembled Kawakubo’s signature coiffure, solely rendered in jujube colours and foam-like supplies.
“To interrupt freed from the gloomy current, I hope to current a brilliant and lightweight future,” was the Japanese designer’s manifesto this season.
There was one thing uplifting and even humorous in regards to the gargantuan Peter Pan collars; the trapeze shapes composed of coiled tubing, piled up like soft-serve ice cream, and the unusual finale clothes that initially look seemed like that they had chairs hanging off the back and front, and on the second an abstraction of a cardigan jacket à la Rue Cambon.
There was a playful, childlike high quality to the gathering, some clothes constructed by connecting what seemed like three big tote luggage; others by becoming a member of a number of printed clothes — so simple as paper cutout ones — round a base of brightly coloured, frothy tulle.
The silhouettes grew ever bigger: some resembling a large turtle; others an enormous conch shell. Right here and there, Kawakubo added big bows, or a toddler harness in sweet colours.
Meredith Monk’s otherworldly wailing added one other quirky layer to this mesmerizing show of dressmaking on steroids, and pleasure unleashed.
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